Pointe shoes are made of 3 major components: the box, shank and back quarter.
The box and shank provide the means to support the foot en pointe. Depending on the variations in measurements, materials and craftsmanship for each part, a dancer will function differently.
Box
The box is the front-most part of the pointe shoe. It encases and supports the dancer’s toes.
The box is generally made of compressed layers of fabric and paper, hardened with glue to make a solid platform for the dancer to balance on. As the dancer wears the shoe, movement, heat and sweat from their feet will cause the paste and materials of the box to break down, stretch and mold to the shape of the dancer's foot. Eventually, the box will break down completely and the dancer will no longer be supported resulting in sinking or instability.
Boxes can come in varying shapes to suit the feet of the dancer and should be fitted like a cast. If the box is fitted correctly, it will help support the dancer without much pain on the outer part of the feet.
Box Shapes
Though every manufacturer has slight variations of each box shape, there are three major types: Tapered, moderately tapered and square.
Tapered Box
This style narrows sharply towards the tip of the toes
Made for toes with one long toe and sharp tapering of the other toes
Suitable for compressive feet
MediumTapered Box
This style narrows slightly towards the tip of the toes
This style is often suitable for more average-width toes, or feet with some toes equal to the longest toe
Suitable for moderately compressive feet
Square Box
This box shape only has slight tapering. Almost as wide at the tip of the shoe as it is at the top of the box.
Ideal for wide, square toes that are almost equal in length
Suitable for non-compressive feet
Platform
Platform is the hard, flat surface at the tip of the pointe shoe that provides the dancer a place to balance when en pointe. How tapered the box is determines how big or small the platform is.
Platforms come in many sizes and shapes and largely determine how a dancer balances and turns in a shoe. In general, there are 3 sizes: small, medium and large, and 3 shapes: rounded, flat and tilted.
Platform Sizes
Small Platform
Smallest surface area
Tapered box: suitable for tapered toes
Most difficult to balance
Requires less strength for rotation
Medium Platform
Medium surface area
Medium tapered Box: suitable for moderately tapered toes
Moderately difficult to balance
Requires slightly more strength for rotation
Wide Platform
Wide surface area
Square Box: suitable for wide toes
Easier to balance
Requires more strength for rotation
Platform Shapes
Rounded platform
Harder to balance: this type of platform is generally more difficult for beginners en pointe who do not have the strength to find the center of the box without the help of a sharper edge. More and more generic brands are going away from this type of platform
Easier to roll through: dancers who enjoy a smoother roll through of a rounded platform prefer this type of platform. This generally for more advanced dancers who have a good grasp of where the center of the box
Better to strengthen: because it is slightly unstable, the dancer will engage their core and will be forced to concentrate on their alignment. It is much like sitting on an exercise ball rather than a chair
Flat platform
Easier to balance: the sharper edges of a flat platform will bring them back to center if they are tilting to one side or another. It is helpful for beginners en pointe to learn correct alignment and where the center of the box is
Harder to roll through - some dancers describe this as a feeling of “getting stuck” and say the sharp edge during the transition from demi to pointe is distracting
Less struggle to strengthen: because the dancer has the ability to “sit” in the center of the box, it is far more stable and therefore less need to struggle to build strength
Tilted platform
Platform is tilted back at the top of the platform: this type of platform is to enhance the look of the arch by pushing the dancer’s foot forward en pointe
Though it isn’t as stable as a completely flat platform, it is more stable than a rounded platform
This may push dancers past the center of the box and may overstretch dancers who are weak and flexible
This is great for dancers with stronger ankles that need a bit more flexibility
Wings
Wings are the two lateral panels on the sides of the box. Wings support the sides of the feet while the dancer is en pointe.
The geometric differences between foot types determines the length, material and shape of the wings.
Length of Wings
Length of the wings is generally determined by the length of the toes as well as the dancer's ankle alignment.
Long wings
Most lateral support: dancers with weaker lateral muscles in the lower leg (peroneus longus and peroneus brevis muscles) may have a tendency to roll towards the outside of the foot. Longer wings may help them stay stable and centered.
Harder to roll through: longer wings may prevent dancers from rolling through demi pointe due to the rigid panels of the wings.
Great for longer toes: dancers with longer toes need more support on the side to protect metatarsophalangeal (MTP) joints or the knuckles.
Short wings
Least lateral support: dancers may feel less support on the sides of their feet and will feel more prone to sickle or bevel (wing). Those who need help with better alignment may consider a longer wing
Easier to roll through: less material on the side of the shoes give dancers freedom for more range of motion
Great for short toes: dancers who have short toes may feel less restricted in shorter wings
Collapsible wings
Collapsible wings may come in different lengths but use less material and glue on the sides so it can be broken down easier
Moldable: these types of wings are the easiest to mold to the dancers’ feet due to the flexibility of its wings
Breaks down quicker: there is less support than a non collapsible wing so the box will break down faster
Shape of wings
Shape of the forefoot determines the shape of the wings. Pay attention to the presence of bunions, tailor’s bunions or exposed knuckles as well as the width across the metatarsals when choosing the shape of the wings.
Straight wings
Wings are unbent
Great for dancers with straight forefoot and do not have bunions or tailor's bunions
Wings can be short or long, tapered or non-tapered
More supportive than rounded wings and will keep the foot in place better
Rounded wings
Shape of the wings are curved
Great for dancers with bunions, tailor’s bunions, enlarged bones around the joints, or exposed knuckles
May protect those who complain the sides of the pointe shoes are causing them pain
Wings can be long or short, tapered or non-tapered
Dancer may not feel as supported and sink in rounded wings if their foot shape is straight
Pleats
Traditional shoes are made with folded satin tucked into the outer sole. These pleats are located on the bottom portion of the box between the platform and outer sole where the dancers land their jumps. Some shoes have a cushioned material like foam to quiet the sound when the dancer is running, walking to standing flat.
Some manufacturers are creating pleatless models for a flatter surface and smoother roll through.
Vamp
The vamp refers to the top of the box sitting directly on top of the toes. It begins at the drawstring (for shoes that have one) to the tip of the box.
The length of the vamp is generally determined by the length of the toes as well as the dancer’s ankle flexibility, strength and arch.The vamp (and wings) should be long enough to cover the toes and knuckles while short enough to roll through demi pointe without being restricted.
Short vamp
Suitable for short toes
The shorter the vamp, the more flexibility and freedom the dancer has in range of motion
Requires the most control due to the least amount of support
May break shoes too low and expose knuckles of the toes if too short
May push the dancer too far forward
Easiest to roll through
Medium vamp
Suitable for medium length toes
Moderate support and ability to roll through
Long vamp
Suitable for long toes
Great for dancers who are “popping out” of the shoe, due to either long toes, flexible ankles/feet or high arches. A higher vamp is more likely to keep the feet from coming out
The longer the vamp, the more restricted the foot
May prevent full roll through and cause blisters on the top of the foot where the drawstring is
May pull the dancer back towards the heel if the vamp is too long
Profile
The shoe profile (or crown) refers to the height of the box measured from the inner sole to the top of the box. How high the profile is based on the profile height of the dancer’s foot (thickness of the foot), shape, compressibility and the ankle range of motion.
Generally, pointe shoe crowns are categorized as low, medium and high.
Low profile
Most suitable for shallow feet
Minimal slope from the tip of the platform to the throat of the shoe
Least amount of space inside the shoe therefore may be the most supportive but also the most restrictive
If the dancer has a tendency to curl their toes, this shoe may help prevent curling and force better contact with the shoe
If the profile is too low for the dancer, it may pull the dancer back towards the heel and contribute to their inability to push over to the top of the box
Profile may be too low if the foot is visibility bulges over the throat of the shoe
Medium profile
Suitable for feet with medium height
Will fit most foot shapes
Moderate amount of space inside shoe for moderate support
High profile
Suitable for high profile feet (fuller foot, or high instep)
Slopes up from the tip of the platform to the throat of the shoe
This is the roomiest profile and least restrictive but the dancer may sink into the box if not fitted correctly
If the profile is too high, there will be a visible space between the shoe and the foot
May help the dancer get on top of the box but may also push over too far
May encourage the dancer to continue their habit of curling or overlapping their toes inside the pointe shoes if they have a tendency to do so
General Box Shapes
Cylinder
Non tapered
High profile
Wide circle platform
Square box when viewed from the top
Flattened Cylinder
Non tapered
Low profile
Wide oval platform
Square box when viewed from top
Cone
Tapered
High profile
Small circle platform
Triangular box when viewed from the top
Flattened Cone
Tapered
Low profile
Small oval platform
Triangular box when viewed from the top
*There are certain models and brands where the shape of the inside and outside of the pointe shoes are different
Pointe shoes that have a tapered inside but square outside: this type is suitable for dancers that have tapered toes but may need the stability of a wider platform
Pointe shoes that have square inside but tapered outside: this type is suitable for dancers that need more room for their toes but want a longer and slimmer look of a tapered model
Shank
Shank is the backbone of the pointe shoe that supports the bottom of the dancer’s feet and arch when dancing en pointe. It is often made of leather, cardboard and/or burlap and has an inner and outer layer and oftentimes (though not always), a stiffer reinforced layer. Shanks come in varying strengths, lengths and shapes that are determined by the dancer’s arch, strength, flexibility, weight and skill level.
Inner sole is the inner bottom surface of the pointe shoe that sits directly beneath the dancer's foot
Outer sole is the bottom of the shoe that is in direct contact with the floor when the dancer is flat. Usually scored or ridged to provide traction
Reinforced layer is the stiffer layer in between the inner and outer layers for stronger support
Sockliner is the soft material lining the inner sole of the pointe shoe. Oftentimes made of suede or cotton to absorb moisture and provide a more comfortable surface for the foot to rest against. Some dancers that customize their shank (¾ or ½) may remove the sockliner before and replace it to smooth out the surface.
Shank Strength
Shanks generally have an inner and outer sole and depending on the manufacturer, an additional stiffer layer in the middle for reinforcement. The length of this stiff layer or the amount of material and glue there is in the shank determines how soft or hard the shank is. The shank strength is determined by the dancer’s strength, arch, flexibility, weight and skill level as well as the type of genre or how they will be using the pair (class or show).
Soft
Has the shortest reinforced layer or the least amount of material and glue in the shank
Generally quieter and lighter due to less glue
Molds to the foot and easiest (and often times fastest) to break in
Generally best for performances, auditions or contemporary pieces
Least amount of support: dancers who lack strength may not feel as stable
May help dancers with rigid ankles and feet to get over the box easier and articulate feet but may be too far forward if the shank is too soft
Easiest to roll through the shank
Generally breaks faster than harder shanks (but not always)
Medium
Moderate amount of support, roll through, break in time and articulation
Adequate for most dancers and genres
Hard
Has the longest reinforced layer or the most amount of material and glue in the shank
Generally louder and heavier due to more glue and material
Harder (and takes longer) to break in and mold to the foot
Generally best for rehearsals, class, classical or pas de deux
Most amount of support: dancers who lack strength or have flexible ankles and feet may feel more stable
Harder to roll through
Dancer may feel difficulty pushing over the top of the box if the shank is too stiff
Generally lasts longest (but not always)
Shape of the shank
Flat shank
Sole of the shoe is straight and offers no conformity to the arch
Makes the break-in process more accurate to the arch because there is no predestined break-in location
Best for dancers who like to customize their shank by cutting a portion or taking out the nail
The foot may feel more grounded and flatter on the floor when standing on flat
Will not force proper placement and therefore the dancer will have to work harder to find the center of the box
May be harder for flexible dancers to break in as flexible feet have a tendency to bend inside the shoe without bending the shank.
Prone to twisting if not broken in properly (ie. could break in at an angle rather then straight and will exaggerate any bad technique such as sickling)
Less popular shank among modern pointe shoe models
Pre arched shank
Sole of the shoe is curved to conform to the arch of the dancer’s foot
May last longer due to less structural strain during break-in
May be helpful for dancers with high or low arches
Helpful for dancers who have difficulty getting over the box
The dancer may feel their feet are domed when standing flat
May promote proper placement en pointe if the dancer lacks the strength to control the shoes
More popular shank among modern pointe shoe models
The outer sole is generally made of a synthetic or leathery material sometimes scored or ridged to provide traction
Split sole
Split sole is a separated outer sole that is meant to help the dancer articulate the feet while maintaining the support of the inner sole
Generally made to “shrink” with the dancer’s feet en pointe and eliminate bagginess in the heel to promote a more streamlined look
Split sole have different level of support depending on the model
Rounded sole
Certain pointe shoe have more material under the metatarsal making the pointe shoes feel unstable on flat
May promote supination and pronation due to the rounded bottom and some say it makes it difficult to execute adagio on a single standing foot
May strengthen core due to instability
Generally layered to give more support en pointe and prevent shoes from breaking too low
May sometimes reverse arch creating an S-shape when standing en pointe
Flat sole
The dancers foot is closer to the ground and does not teeter side to side as much
Dancers feel more stable when standing en flat
May break too low due to less material and support under the metatarsal
Length of shank
Full shank
Reinforced layer runs the full length of the innersole
The shank is more or less the same shank strength throughout the full length of the sole
Dancers that have more flexibility in their forefoot may break shoes lower
Often times more supportive for less experienced dancers
Dancers with stronger, more flexible feet may snap the shank faster because the shank does not follow the shape of their arch
May be harder for less flexible dancers to get over on the box
¾ shank
Reinforced layer comes up to about ¾ of the innersole about where the dancer’s arch is
As each dancers' feet are unique and may bend at different part of their foot, a pre ¾ shank may not align perfectly with where their foot breaks
Maybe helpful for advanced dancers with flexible feet as flexible feet have a tendency to bend inside the shoe without bending the shank. A full shank may stay stiff and straight while the foot bends inside of it. When this happens, the shoe doesn’t give support for the heel when it is en pointe.
For stronger dancers, ¾ shank may last longer as the shoe bends and gives the heel a “shelf” to sit on
For dancers who are weaker or less experienced, a ¾ shank may not give enough support and will break faster
Back of the Shoe
The back of the shoe (from the end of the wings to the heel) includes the waist seam, and back quarter and generally made of layers of satin, canvas, suede and other materials depending on the model. The back of the shoe is determined by the shape of the heel, height of the arch, flexibility of the dancers’ foot and ankle as well as their skill level. A foot that tapers towards the heel will generally fit a 'diamond shape' shoe with a narrower heel and less fabric, and a foot that is a consistent width from toe to heel will generally suit a 'rectangular shape” with more fabric.
Back quarter (or side quarter)
The part of the shoe from the waist seam to the heel covering the sides and heel of the foot. Some companies may use different materials to prevent bagginess or slipping
Heel
Low
Least amount of material
Shows off the arch
Doesn’t bag as much en pointe
Less support in the back of the foot
May slip off easier
Medium
Moderate amount of material for support, stability and slippage
High
Most amount of material
May wrinkle en pointe due to excess material
Most support in the back
May stay on heel better
Heel Cushion
Some pointe shoes will incorporate a heel cushion cupping the heel to provide more security while maintaining the shape of the shoe both flat and en pointe
Some heel cushion may jut out and sit awkwardly en pointe
Leather
Some heels have a leather or suede lining on the inside of the heel to grip onto the dancers’ heels better
This thicker material is harder to sew
Waist seam
Low
Less fabric on the sides of the foot giving the illusion of a higher arch
May not feel as secure for dancers that need more lateral support
Many professional dancers ask for this custom as they need less support than dancers in training and want to enhance the look of their arch
High
More fabric on the sides of the foot
May feel more secure and stable
Type of materials
Most pointe shoes have an inner layer and an outer layer.
Inner layer
Lining on the inside of the shoe that has direct contact with the dancer’s feet
Traditionally made of canvas consisting of cotton or linen
Some manufacturers will use suede, leather or some other synthetic material like polyester to better absorb sweat and smell as well as provide a softer surface for more comfort
These nontraditional materials may be thicker and harder to sew
Outer layer
Lining on the outside of the shoe
Most pointe shoes will have a shiny satin on the outside of the pointe shoe
Some models can be ordered in matte canvas or other materials for certain genres of dance
Some manufacturers will use a double faced or dense, stiff satin to eliminate wrinkles and retain its shape
Some manufacturers may use a stretch satin made to conform to the foot when en pointe
Week 1 Assignment
Post a photo of a pointe shoe (you can find a photo online or take a photo of a shoe you own) post on the Week 1 Assignment page.
Describe the shoe in detail including platform, wings, vamp, shank and heel.
List the make and model and use visual cues for your description rather than looking up the company's description of the shoe - this exercise it to test how well you understood the material.
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