Week 5 - Brands and Models: Part II

1. Merlet

2. Nikolay/Grishko

3. Repetto

4. RP Collection

5. R-Class

Merlet

About the company

“The history of Merlet started in 1974 in Limoges. Shoemaker, Roger James Merlet, had always worked with shoes.

When he decided to develop ballet shoes, it wasn't by chance that he met Roger Béchade. This famous violinist was married to a principal dancer for whom he was making the pointe shoes. From this meeting, the passion for ballet was born.

1978/ An apprentice (not like the others) joined Merlet.

This year, a young man of 17 years old joined Roger James Merlet. This man is Pierre Lassenne. A real professional and human alchemy which will be the start of a long and nice collaboration.

1980/ The 'stitch and return’: a technique which will change the ballet shoes for ever.

It’s in the small workshop in Limoges, rue des Belges, that the team develops the shoes with the comfort of the dancers in mind.

At this time, around 50 pairs of pointe shoes were made every day.

It’s also at this time that Roger James Merlet and Pierre Lassenne discovered the stitch and return technique. This technique will bring a new way of dancing and comfort.

1985/ Innovation: a real importance for Merlet

Concerned about the perfection and the slightest detail, Roger James Merlet and Pierre Lassenne studied with professors from the Limoges hospital. The aim was to really to understand the anatomy of the dancers in order to guarantee a perfect product adapted to each dancer.

1990/ An end and beginning

It’s 12 years since Pierre Lassenne joined the company. During those 12 years that Roger James Merlet gave his savoir faire and knowledge.

When the time came for Roger James Merlet to retire, it was natural that Pierre Lassenne took over the company.

R.J Merlet will always keep tabs on the company.

1991/ Merlet: ballet shoe precursor

Innovation and knowledge are really important to Pierre Lassenne. He has developed pointe shoes using new material

Another innovation is the use of the polycarbonate in the manufacturing of pointe shoes. It’s really flexible and unbreakable. This discovery extends the lifespan of the pointe shoes.

The patent was so innovative the competitors took back this technique

1992/ Elisabeth Maurin: principal dancer and model for Merlet

This first collaboration with a dancer “Etoile” at the Paris Opera was with Elisabeth Maurin and lasted two years. During these two years, the dancer was the model for Merlet.

1994/ Merlet: International

Since Pierre Lassenne started to head the company, he travels all around Europe and meets with the most famous ballet companies. Merlet is developing pointe shoes for many dancers… The brand becomes more and more famous with the most prestigious ballet companies: Vienna, Lyon, Bonn, Paris, Berlin,

1997/ Merlet launched its first ballroom shoes collection

With its “savoir faire” and many years of experience, Merlet decides to develop ballroom shoes. The first one of many is “EVA” which is still in the collection today.

1998 / Marie-Claude Pietragalla and Nicolas Le Riche: two “étoiles” meet Merlet.

This year was born a real important collaboration with the principal’s dancers from the Paris Opera between Marie-Claude Pietragalla, Nicolas Le Riche and Merlet. This collaboration will last 7 years. Pierre Lassenne worked with and developed many products with the two dancers

2000/ A company enjoys worldwide renown

10 years since Pierre Lassenne became director of the company. The knowledge of his team and his insight allows Merlet to increase its turnover by 7 times. Exports reached 20% of the turnover. Nowadays it’s around 50% of the turnover.

2001/ Merlet launched its first soft ballet shoe

Merlet expanded its range and for the first time launched two models of soft ballet shoes. ECLAT and ENVOL joined the Merlet catalogue.

2002/ The leading product of Merlet is born: the pointe shoe Prélude

Thanks to the collaboration with Marie-Claude Pietragalla, Merlet develops its new leading product: the Prélude pointe shoe.

This pointe shoe was developed after many years of study. A fabulous pointe shoe which allows the children to dance on a point shoe without hurting the body.

2004/ A new soft ballet shoes collection

Merlet re-develops its soft ballet shoes collection and introduces the models Solène and Initiale, for professional dancers.

2007/ A new range of products: Jazz shoes

Merlet innovate and develop a range of jazz shoes

2010/ A new beginning for Merlet

With Merlet, tradition goes with innovation… with its new corporate identity, Merlet offers a young image. This image is also keeping the tradition and savoir faire that Merlet is known for.

2010/ Merlet launched its new pointe shoe: N2

Merlet launched its first pointe shoe with an inside microfiber for a better comfort and look. N2 is also new for its inside in pink.

2011/ Merlet renews its ballroom shoes collection.

Merlet renews its entire ballroom shoes collection. It’s a great success!

2012/ Death of Roger James Merlet

In 2012, Roger James Merlet left us. Pierre Lassenne continues to perfect this knowledge. Now, it’s his turn to pass on this experience to his team and with great pride the continuing Merlet tradition.

2012/ Merlet is looking to the future!

Julien LASSENNE, the son of Pierre LASSENNE, starts his apprenticeship as Master Shoemaker. Julien was 22 when he joined Merlet. Coming from a background in "Automated Machine Design", he chose to learn the art and craft of making pointe shoes and dance shoes. Passionate about tradition and innovation, Julien contributes to the development of new products and manages the production of our French pointe shoes.

2013/ Merlet changes its look!

Merlet changes it’s look with a new logo.Designed around a lively and energetic colour our new look reflects our positive spirit and our desire to constantly drive forward and create new ways to support our dancers' needs.

2014/ Merlet celebrates its 40th anniversary!

Merlet has always preserved and passed on its know-how betweenMaster Shoemakers. Always at the forefront of new technologies with a team that grows year on year, Merlet is proud of its history and how we got here today.

2015/ Merlet starts its collaboration with the Opéra national de Paris

Created in the 17th century, the ballet of Opéra national de Paris, the oldest academic dance company in the world, has always known how to develop its art. The same goes for Merlet, master shoemaker who is inspired by steps and techniques, which are constantly being renewed. Working closely with the dancers, Merlet improves the comfort, aesthetics and elegance of professional dance shoes.

2016/ Creation of a workshop of excellence

Merlet creates its workshop of excellence in Limoges, France, for the development of pointe shoes and the technical training of shoemakers. The development and artisanal manufacture of all our new points take place in Limoges in our workshop.

2017/ DIVA is born

DIVA is the first pointe shoe from our French workshop. A high-end pointe shoes, aesthetic tip with a polycarbonate sole and anti-deformation platform for longevity.

2018/ The born of CLOE

CLOE is an innovative pointe shoe with a kryptonite sole for more flexion and arch support giving excellent durability.

2019/ BELLE

Designed especially for beginners, BELLE offers comfort, protection and stability. Merlet has worked closely with the medical professions to provide a pointe shoe which protects a child's growing foot. BELLE facilitates the roll and stability on pointe while protecting our little dancers feet.

2019/ SOLO

We launched SOLO, our stretch canvas half-pointe shoes developed especially for men dancers in collaboration with Julien Guillemard, dancer at the Paris Opera. We designed a new asymmetrical shape to "glove" the foot and without extra thickness under the pleats.

2020/ Year of global changes

2020 is marked by a new Sales & Marketing Department with the arrival of Jessica Legrand Pasques in the management team. Merlet gives new dimensions to international projects and aims to give our brand the visibility it deserves worldwide

Merlet North America Inc is launched with a brand new distribution center in Miami to serve our growing number of partner resellers in the United States.

Recommended Models:

Diva

Why we recommend:

• Wide flat platform and square box allows for ample room for square toes and easier balance

• Long vamp is suitable for dancers with long square toes that require more support on the top of their feet en pointe

• Gel tip inside the box provides comfort

Belle

Why we recommend:

• Short vamp allows for better roll through for short toes

• Flat medium platform for easy balance

• Elastic casing for a snug fit

Lena (new)

Why we recommend:

• Moderate taper and average platform size is a great option in between Diva and Belle

• Durable longer lasting materials

• High and Low vamp options

Nikolay/Grishko

About the company “Nikolay decided to start the Grishko company after hearing dancers complain about their footwear through his wife, a former ballerina.

Shortly after starting the company in the early 1990s, many of the theatre workshops in Russia were forced to close and Nikolai recruited the master craftsmen from these theatre workshops to work with him. Nikolai also recruited the only person to date to have a PhD in ballet shoe technology and mechanics.

As of 2014, the company consists of four factories in Europe, a flagship store in Moscow Russia and over 500 employees, including 76 people with registered disabilities.

As of September 11, 2019, Grishko operates in the United States of America under the name Nikolay as the result of a legal battle with their US distributor, I.M. Wilson.

Grishko pointe shoes are handmade using all natural materials and tested by professional dancers. Grishko has developed several pointe shoe innovations such as using nano-technology to improve foot health, working with navy acoustics labs to reduce noise on stage and collaborating with a laboratory of starch products to develop better glues.

Grishko's footwear line includes shoes for pointe, ballet, ballroom, jazz, acro, contemporary, gymnastics, character and theatre. The pointe shoes are based on four main shapes, called "lasts" - the Grishko 2007, the Fouette, the Vaganova and the Elite. Grishko currently offers 26 different models of pointe shoes. The most recent pointe shoe added to the line is based on the Grishko 2007 last and is called the DreamPointe.

The dancewear line includes leotards for ballet and gymnastics, warm-up boots, tights, stage costumes, knitwear, fitness, yoga, pilates and general active lifestyle wear. The Grishko dancewear workshop handcrafts intricate tutus, costumes and shoes. The company also produces dance accessories, such as toe pads, bags, ribbons, elastics and overlays.

In 2014, Grishko created and produced its first 'haute couture' dancewear line in collaboration with Diana Vishneva and Tatyana Parfionova.

In the December 2014 issue of Vogue, Annie Leibovitz photographed Amy Adams wearing Grishko's Nova 2007 model pointe shoes.

Grishko products are commonly used in Vogue Russia, most notably in photoshoots by Patrick Demarchelier.

In January 2014, Ralph Lauren used Grishko pointe shoes for ballet themed window displays of its stores.

Grishko supports dance schools and organizations such as The Vaganova Academy of Russian Ballet, The Dance Open and The Boris Eifman Academy.”

Models

*Available upon special request or custom order

Grishko/Nikolay have added new innovations with each upgrade. There are variations in shank, material and function are added to the existing models for their new generation.

They are categorized by the words: Pro, Flex and Pro Flex. Not all models have these variables.

Words Decoded:

Pro: If you see the word “pro” after a model, it means that the shoe is made to eliminate noise. “Silent knot” technology dampens sound on stage by adding a cushion material under the pleats

• Models include: Maya Pro, 3007 Pro, Nova Pro, Fouette Pro, Triumph Pro and Elite Pro

Flex: If you see the word “flex” after a model, it means that the shank is created to be more flexible and ready to wear for performance. It enhances the arch by molding to the bottom of the feet with more internal contact points, easier to roll-through demi and great for dancers to build strength.

• Model include: Nova Flex and Custom

Pro Flex: Models with “Pro Flex” after its name get a combination of both Pro and Flex. Allowing for a more quiet and flexible shoe.

• Models include: 3007 Pro Flex, Fouette Pro Flex, Nova Pro Flex, Maya I Pro Flex

Models we recommend:

3007

Why we recommend:

• Based on 2007 last construction that may seem tapered but is versatile to many different types of feet

• Upgraded from previous 2007 for better roll through

• Low sides to enhance the look of the arch

• Narrowed heel with anti-slip counter molds to better stay on the foot

• Lightweight paste with gradual integration for better articulation

• Available in 3007 Pro and 3007 Pro Flex

DreamPointe 2007 (Allure)

Why we recommend

• Based on 2007 last construction that may seem tapered but is versatile to many different types of feet

• Longer lasting paste-free shank using thermoformable materials is lightweight and easy to mold to the foot

• Pre arched ¾ shank helps dancers get over en box

• Padding in the box for added comfort and shock absorption

• Wider platform allows for easier balance
  

Nova

Why we recommend

• Based on 2007 last construction that may seem tapered but is versatile to many different types of feet

• Wider platform than 3007 provide easier balance

• Lower heel for a streamlined fit

• Longer wings for stability

• Available in Nova Pro, Nova Flex and Nova Pro Flex

Miracle

Why we recommend

• Based on 2007 last construction that may seem tapered but is versatile to many different types of feet

• One of the lightest and most quiet Grishko/Nikolay models

• Inner fabric is made of silver treated antibacterial material

• Padded box absorbs shock

• Lower heel that 3007 for streamline fit

SmartPointe

Why we recommend

• Based on the new SmartPointe last created for a more comfortable fit for wider feet

• Uses lightweight elastic glue that stays flexible and easy to mold the box to adjust to foot shape

• Anti-slip microfiber heel allows the shoes to stay on the dancer’s feet

• Smoother roll through

• Lower fabric enhances the dancer’s foot

Stream Pointe

Why we recommend

• Built on the Smart Pointe last that is great for broad metatarsals

• Classic shank with easy roll-through
  

• Elasticated binding provides a streamlined fit for dancers with shallow and square foot shapes
  

• Pliable yet supportive shanks follow any arch height
  

• Extreme flat platform will allow the dancer stability and secure balance
  

• Comfortable, soft, shock-absorbing insole

• Lining in the heel made from a unique microfiber fabric that prevents the pointe shoes from slipping off the foot

StarPointe

Why we recommend

• Innovative pointe shoes with unique eco-friendly construction providing maximum comfort and long lifespan
  

• Thermoformable shank lasts longer and gives both flexibility and resilient support to the foot
  

• Thermoformable insole
  

• Adaptable crown accommodates all foot shapes
  

• Elasticated binding for a streamlined fit
  

• Microfiber heel cup
  

NeoPointe

Why we recommend

• Soft detail in the box and soft microfiber lining for additional comfort and minimizing toe pressure
  

• Nikolay's most Pliable Shank
  

• 2/3 box for better roll through
  

• Adaptable crown allowing consistent support in the metatarsal area yet staying flexible at the same time for a greater variety of movements
  

• Elastic drawstring
  

• Lower heel

Tamara

Why we recommend

• Built on the Fouette Last with a reinforced vamp preventing spillage

• Shank, heel and sides are 5 mm shorter in comparison to the Maya model offering a smooth appearance

• Heel counter securely hugs the heel

• Enhanced flexibility with arch support. Shanks are made from leatherboard and other materials for longevity and the added arch support will prevent the shoe from breaking low
  

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Repetto

About the company

“Repetto is a French ballet shoe company. It was founded in 1947 by Rose Repetto, after her son, choreographer Roland Petit, would come home from classes complaining of sore feet. Repetto provides ballet shoes for the National Opera of Paris and many other well-known French ballet companies. As of 2013, the company had 60 million euros in revenues and employed 340 people.

Rose Repetto created her first ballet shoes for her son in 1947 and soon thereafter opened up her first workshop near the National Opera of Paris. The company gained fame from creating the "Cendrillon" ballerina flat for French ballet dancer and actress Brigitte Bardot's 1956 film Et Dieu… créa la femme. In 1959, Repetto opened up a store at 22 rue de la Paix in Paris near the National Opera that remains open today.

The brand fell out of the limelight after Repetto's death in 1984, but French entrepreneur Jean-Marc Gaucher helped turn around the company when he took over as CEO in 1999. Since then, Repetto has expanded internationally and tried to define itself as a luxury lifestyle brand. It has branched out into a footwear collection for women, men and children, ready-to-wear, small leather goods and fragrances. The company is opening its first store in America in the New York City neighborhood of Soho in the fall of 2015.”

Model we recommend:

La Carlotta

Why we recommend:

• Quiet box

• Long vamp and reinforced wings gives support for dancers with longer toes

• Square shape gives ample room for toes

• Lower profile hugs the foot with comfort

• Flexible shank and rounded platform allows for easier roll through

RP Collection 1998

About the company

“In 1998, Aleksandra Efimova founded RP 1998 while she was still in college.

The RP 1998 method combines old-world hand-craftsmanship with modern equipment that helps ensure the high level of precision and consistency needed to create truly functional, reliable and beautiful pointe shoes. Here, a cobbler pierces components of the sole, preparatory to sewing sole and shank together.

After carefully molding the toe box from many layers of several natural fabrics and all-natural, non-toxic glue, the cobbler balances each shoe individually. Using precise taps with his hammer, and then checking to see that the platform is perfectly smooth, flat and balanced, the cobbler makes sure that the shoe will give the dancer a secure and exquisitely supported experience on pointe.

For consistency, the satin and cotton that make up the pointe shoe’s upper are cut by machine. Then, each upper is sewn individually. Every pointe shoe model, size and width has its own pattern, and sewers must work carefully to maintain that unique shape as the pieces come together.

When it leaves the sewing room, the pointe shoe looks like a slipper, made entirely of fabric. Then, it is turned, in the classic method of pointe shoemaking, and fitted onto the cobbler’s “last.”

The cobbler molds each pointe shoe on its individual last, the mold that determines the exact shape of the shoe. Here, as the cobbler balances one pointe shoe, its partner lies nearby. In front of the cobbler are pointe shoes that have just been crafted and are still on their lasts. Behind him are shelves filled with some of RP Collection’s thousands of lasts – one for every combination of pointe model, size and width.”

Sea of Pearls Collection:

• Pre arched construction that enhances arch and minimize break-in

• Classical pleated box

• Medium profile

• Medium crown

• Crisp edged platform for balance

• Long-lasting shanks

• Streamlined look of the low crown

• Preached construction for minimal break in and and longer lasting shank

• Wide flat platform helps the dancer balance as well as stay on the center of the box

• Versatile for many foot types and most popular amongst RP 1998 Models

• Pre arched construction for minim
  

Sea of Pearls Collection

Akoya

Why we recommend

• Classical pleated platform with pre arched construction

• Medium-high crown for fuller instep

• Medium platform provides less friction and more rotation

• Ideal for slender, tapered toes or a longer second toe, and need a narrow-fitting feel

Baroque

Why we recommend

• Classical pleated platform with pre arched construction

• Medium-high crown for fuller instep

• Ideal for medium to wide feet with a high profile

• Sleek heel for dancers with wide metatarsals but narrow heels

Mabe

Why we recommend

• Sea of Pearls collection: Classical pleated platform with pre arched construction

• High crown for fuller instep

• Ideal for wide even-length toes and a high profile

R-Class    

About the company

"R-Class has been manufacturing pointe shoes since 1991. We began supplying soloists at The Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow and then grew into being a major supplier for ballerinas worldwide. Through the years, our technology, superior quality, reach, and demand has grown and we are happy to continue this growth in the US! 

The options include upgrades to well known old favorite models as well as new exciting ones which dancers will undoubtedly love. Both old and new models are made with best quality European fabrics and cardboard, improved long lasting glue and genuine Russian design featuring a new color. All these pointe shoes have been tested by leading professionals of world ballet troupes."

The R-Class RC, CL, and AD Collections are improved and updated with some all new styles. The shanks all have a 3/4 component with updated pasting methods, a darker European pink double reinforced satin (a more universal color), and a wide variety of custom options.

RC Signature Collection:

Pleatless have shallower crowns that lift the dancer high in the shoe and stitched soles for wonderful durability and stabilization.  

• RC10 – Pristine: Most tapered and shallow - Compare to Sapfir (but redone last)

• RC20 – Brillante: Tapered with broader metatarsal - Compare to Almaz (but redone last) I find it is a similar shape to the old 2007

• RC30 – Fantasia: Square and broad - Compare to Rubin

• RC40 – Iridescence: Similar shape as RC30 with more volume in the box and less volume in the heel - Compare to Radiance - (RC47 with microfiber tip and soft shank is the closest but many would have preferred that shoe with a satin tip or a harder shank which are now all available)

• RC50 – Incande: Extra long wings and lateral support - V Vamp with drawstring - this is a new last - designed with the hyper-mobile foot in mind. The longer wings work very well for this type of foot to support laterally - Vamp 3 with a soft shank is actually a wonderful option for the weak but flexible foot. This is also a great answer for dancers that preferred a V in older R-Class models.

• RC90 – Enchante: Broad and wide – same last as CL90 – broad and very wide with pleatless technology that makes the crown more shallow and secure. - On Muse last with peatless construction.

Base models end in “0” and are in stock in vamp 2 in soft, medium, and hard. Then there are variations for customization from there.

Ending in “1” – First Pointe – super soft shank with lighter pasting 

Ending in “2” – Quiet - piece of foam that mutes the sound

Ending in “6” – 3/4 sole and hard shank to make the shank extra hard

Ending in “7” – Microfiber Tip

Interesting Fact: RC Signature Collection has been available in Europe since 2018. They are distributed in a warehouse in Bulgaria. They chose to focus on only the quiet models - primarily RC22 is the most popular. The quiet piece does really work for muting sound but it is a bit squishy. Foam and Jet Glue don't always play nice so if a dancer tends to heavily glue their tips, the foam option might not be preferred. We have found in the US most people prefer the base model - but those variations are wonderful options.

CL Classic Symphony Collection:

Pleated pointe shoes have higher crowns due to the traditional turn-shoe method of construction. The shanks and soles are attached using nails and glue. Both of these make shoes more pliable and allow the dancer to go further over the platform. 

• CL60 – Crescenda: Moderately tapered med-high crown - Compare to Encore (but a little less tapered) I find it like a Heritage with wings

• CL70 – Arpeggia: Very square. Compare to Brava but even more square

• CL80 – Toccata: Very tapered with high crown. Compare to Entrada - However my foot used to prefer Encore and now prefers this one. With the modified pasting it is slightly less tapered. I have a high arch, full forefront, with a compressible forefront if that helps visualize.

• CL90 – Legata: Very broad and wide – compare to RC90 (same last with different technology). Compare to Muse

The base models that are in stock are vamp 2. We also have great stock in vamp 1's in CL60, CL70, and CL90. Vamp 1's have been highly requested but not highly sold.

Interesting Fact: Pleated pointe shoes require a very highly skilled artisan to craft. They take longer to create and a lot of training and practice. R-Class has dedicated masters (what they call makers) for each style. Each style is made in a room with a group of the same artisans that ensure that the consistency is maintained. Masters to not change styles/rooms.

Adaptiv Collection 

Plastic platform, "Adapiv" glue, and a stretch satin heel.

AD69 is on CL60/RC10 last - moderately tapered with med-high crown

AD19 is on RC20 last (but confusing so we aren't saying that) Describe it as more broad and shallower crown - typically works more for an RC40 type shape foot. 

Week 5 Video Review

Additional Materials

Nikolay - NeoSmart, DreamPointe 2007, NeoVictory

RP Collection - Baroque, Akoya

Week 5 Assignment

Take a look at your foot shape (shape of the toes, arch, width and compressibility) match 1 or 2 pointe shoe models from the recommended list and explain why on the Week 5 Assignment.

*Keep in mind there is no true wrong or right answer. We want to see your thought process in how you came to your conclusion